The short answer
Go to El Nido for the scenery. The lagoons and limestone islands of Bacuit Bay have no equal in Palawan. Go to Port Barton for the quiet: a village beach, small boats, and reefs you share with almost nobody. The two are about three hours apart by van, so many travellers do both.
Scenery and island hopping
El Nido: Four set tours (A, B, C and D) run through tall karst islands, lagoons you paddle into by kayak, and beaches hidden behind rock walls. It is the most dramatic boat day in the Philippines. It is also busy, and the famous stops fill with boats by late morning.
Port Barton: Low green islands, white beaches and coral reefs. The highlights are swimming with sea turtles at German Island, the beach at Exotic Island, and the reef stops in between. Boats are small, and you can go an hour without seeing another group.
Winner: El Nido for scenery. Port Barton for snorkelling in peace.
Crowds and atmosphere
El Nido is a real tourist town. There are dozens of restaurants, bars with live music, tour desks on every corner and traffic on the main street. If you like having choices in the evening, this is your place.
Port Barton is still a fishing village. The streets are sand, roosters wake you up, and the beach is everyone's front yard. Evenings mean a handful of beach bars and an early night.
Winner: Port Barton, unless you want nightlife.
Costs
- Island hopping in El Nido: P1,500 to P1,800 per person for a shared tour, plus about P400 in municipal eco fees and P200 for each lagoon you enter.
- Island hopping in Port Barton: roughly P1,200 to P1,800 per person depending on the route and operator, with fewer extras on top.
- Rooms and food: noticeably cheaper in Port Barton, where most places are simple guesthouses and local kitchens.
Winner: Port Barton.
Comfort and practical things
- Power and internet: In Port Barton, daytime power cuts and weak Wi-Fi are normal. El Nido is better, but outages of a few hours still happen.
- Cash: El Nido has several ATMs, and they sometimes run empty. Do not count on an ATM in Port Barton. Bring enough pesos for your whole stay.
- Health: Both have only basic clinics. For anything serious you go to Puerto Princesa.
Winner: El Nido.
Getting there
El Nido: 5 to 6 hours by shared van from Puerto Princesa (P600-800), or a direct flight from Manila to Lio Airport.
Port Barton: 3 to 4 hours by shared van from Puerto Princesa, from about P500. The last section of road is rough.
Between the two: daily vans take about 3 hours and cost P500-600.
How many days
Give Port Barton two or three days: one for island hopping, one for doing nothing. Give El Nido three to five: two boat tours, a beach day at Nacpan, and a spare day for weather.
Who should pick which
- First trip to Palawan, short on time: El Nido
- You have seen lagoons before and want rest: Port Barton
- Travelling on a tight budget: Port Barton
- You need reliable internet for work: El Nido
- Families with small children: Port Barton, for the calm shallow water and short boat rides
Doing both
The easy order is Puerto Princesa, then Port Barton, then El Nido. You travel north in two short van rides instead of one long one, and you finish with the big scenery. From El Nido you can fly out, or take the ferry on to Coron.